Argus article 3

Have you ever walked into a place where everyone stopped everything to stare at you? Unless you are a movie star or political icon, my guess is that your answer is no. Here in Taiwan, my answer is yes. I am undoubtedly the first Caucasian female, if not the first foreigner, that most people have ever seen. Not only when I walk into a room, but whenever I leave the comfort of my house, I become the immediate interest of every person I pass. Men and women on scooters crane their necks to get a glimpse of me; little kids hit their mothers’ leg to tell her to look; and many people even point or laugh. They are not laughing at me, per say, they are just nervous and excited and don’t know how else to react. My first few weeks in Taiwan, this acknowledgement made me feel famous, and, honestly, I enjoyed the attention. But now, after 7 weeks, I am getting sick of being singled out everywhere I go. For once, I would like to walk into a store and have people go along with their business, instead of stop in their tracks to watch my every move. As always, I politely smile, nod, and say hello; but it is a charade that is beginning to wear thin. Imagine every time you walk into Wal-Mart having to generously smile and nod to every person you encounter. In the more crowded areas, like the night market, I get attention from every direction. Here, the vendors are eager to show me their products; students of mine want to show me a game or introduce me to their parents; the older Taiwanese stare and sometimes walk away from me; and many people try their English by yelling “hallow” to me. This is a great time to get out and socialize, even if I am the only fluent English speaker.

The night market is an Asian custom of which I am becoming very fond. The big cities have a night market every night of the week; but my small town only hosts a traveling market every Thursday night. This is one thing that Hollywood has portrayed fairly accurately: the busy and loud night market. There are rows of vendors begging for your money; selling anything from food, clothing, trinkets, or Chinese games. The night market is the place to find a good bargain, and there are always good eats from around the world. There are many traditional Taiwanese, Chinese, and Japanese meals, as well as those unique foods for the daring. These include deep fried duck neck, chicken feet, squid on a stick, blood rice, and the infamous stinky tofu. You will know if you have been within fifty yards of stinky tofu. It is single-handedly the most awful smell I’ve ever smelled in my life. I don’t understand what would inspire anyone to eat something that smells so awful. From what I’ve heard, this delicatessen is simply tofu that has gone through the same process to make yogurt. Supposedly, it is very tasty. I will never know. Another popular dish that I will never sample is the blood rice. It is exactly what you would think; chicken blood and rice compacted together to make a patty. This is grilled, boiled, or baked, and usually eaten on a stick. The Taiwanese have this at every barbeque, and sometimes at dinners. I have clearly stated to my hosts that it is not something I am willing to try, and they have been very understanding. At the Thursday night market, I typically get stuffed dumplings (go-tee-ay), popcorn chicken (gee row), or a sizzling chicken plate (gee pie). I look forward to my watermelon juice and fresh cut pineapple from vendors. The market does not change much from week to week, so the vendors are starting to recognize my face and aren’t so surprised when I walk by their stand. The watermelon juice stand doesn’t even ask what I want; they see me and know “there is the American that always gets a juice!” Same with the fruit vendor.
As in most street markets around the world, bartering is acceptable in the Taiwanese night market. I have taken a shot at getting a lower price, but have not yet been successful. My attempt was short; I suggested one price, and got denied. If I were more confident in my Chinese, I would barter more seriously until I got a price less than the asking. Perhaps that is a new goal for myself; learn to say prices quickly in order to barter prices at the night market.
As in any busy area, you can expect the “town creep” to be wondering the night market. He is an older-looking man with rotten teeth. He is visibly drunk and staggering, yelling “hallow” up and down each aisle. What makes him different from a bum in America? He is chewing the “bedel nut.” This is a popular narcotic among Taiwanese. It gives a high similar to a cigarette as far as I’ve heard. It is a nut-like substance that is chewed until it is only fibers; and it makes the saliva as red as blood. If you weren’t aware of this addiction, you may think that the person has TB. They typically spit large quantities of red saliva; and the streets are stained from this. The combination of alcohol and bedel nut is a very unattractive scene, as you may image. There is always something interesting to experience at the Hsin Kang night market.
As I said before, I look forward to the Thursday night market in my town; and am anxious to visit other markets to see the difference in size and vendors. It is one more thing to add to my list of things I love about Taiwan. After seven weeks, I am still enjoying every moment, staying safe, and learning more than one could imagine. My next article will feature what I’ve learned regarding the family values of the Taiwanese. Until then, keep smiling Shiawassee!