Friday, June 5, 2009

Last Argus Article - "lessons"

For those of you Argus readers that have followed my year of adventures teaching and traveling in Taiwan, I’d like to wrap up my year with some of the valuable lessons that I have learned or that have been reiterated over this past year. Because I will be home in less than a month (June 26), this will be my last article for the Argus. I would like to thank everyone for the continued support and prayers. When I think back on my year in Asia, two major lessons speak strongly to me.

For the first lesson, I actually formed a personal motto to keep me focused in times of frustration. It pulled me thru many difficult situations. The motto: “Smile, take a deep breath, do the right thing.” This may seem like a simple reminder, but it has been my saving grace time and time again.

Being in a foreign land, I was faced with having to solve problems in a different way. Typically, when there is an issue between two or more individuals, one confronts the other and they try to solve the problem or, a third party is enlisted to resolve the issue. In most all instances there is some form of resolution. That method of problem solving is rarely, if ever, utilized in Taiwan. Many things are “swept under the rug” so that no one “loses face,” becomes embarrassed or humiliated. In Asian culture, one does everything possible to avoid this from happening, either to themselves or others. Once you lose face, the Taiwanese believe it is impossible to regain respect and honor. So many times I just had to smile, walk away from the situation and deal with whatever was the issue on my own in the best manner possible.

Remembering my motto has been vital to retaining friendships in the workplace as well. Something minor that could be mentioned casually to solve a problem or make a situation better, very likely would cause a colleague to lose face. I have learned that it is better to not bring attention to minor problems and just deal with it myself. This process has made me think much more before I act or react. I guess it could be said that it has taken the phrase; “choose your battles carefully,” to a whole new level for me. I have done a lot of “dealing with it” this past year.

Along the same line, I have learned that just because something is done differently than what you are accustom to, does not mean it is wrong. I believe this is a difficult lesson for most everyone, and I am no exception. Obviously, the topic just discussed above is one example. Another prevalent Asian behavior has been a bit more difficult for me to assimilate----chronic procrastination and lack of fore planning. For instance, the school calendar, and other important dates, is not given to teachers for several weeks AFTER the semester begins. As a foreign teacher, I have to wait a few more weeks until someone translates that for me. Also, there has been more than one instance when I was given a responsibility or project that could have been assigned weeks prior but instead was told just hours before it was to be accomplished. The first few times it occurred I thought it was just an oversight, but as it became a pattern I knew it was just an aspect of the culture. Rarely do things get done “on time” or exactly when it was published to happen.

I was told before my arrival in Taiwan that this culture can be procrastinators but I was not prepared for the level that exists in all facets of life on this island nation. I am, by nature and training, a “planner” and “organizer” so you can imagine the frustrations that I encountered. My motto helped work through things like these examples and actually, after time, assisted me with acceptance of many cultural differences. I believe this axiom, or any other proverb-like saying is a great way to remind us how we want to act in certain situations. In my case, it kept me focused on not going with my initial instinct in any given situation but, instead, to step back and evaluate situations before acting.



The second major lesson learned during my year abroad was actually introduced to me in 7th grade, but the reality of that message seemed to escape me until this past year. At the very beginning of that academic year, my algebra teacher, Mr. Jason Schemenauer, made this statement to our class: “extra effort is the key to success.” At the time, I figured he was telling us that we needed to finish our homework everyday even though it wasn’t checked everyday. I had no clue he may, indeed, have been talking about homework, but that in actuality was imploring a life lesson. Funny how you remember seemingly inconsequential things from the past as you gain life experience. I thought I gave my “all” in number of previous situations but it wasn’t until this one that I knew I really hadn’t. Giving an extra inch, foot, or mile in any situation will always bring you closer to success. I got it now.

While in Taiwan, I have applied this principle to my teaching. Typically, on the first day of a job, you are given expectations, rules, and other useful information for being successful in your new workplace. On my first day, I was given the student book for each grade and set off on my own. I was in the dark as to what aspect of the lessons I should focus on, what the students’ English level would be, and other vital facts about my students and curriculum. These things I would have to learn on my own. Instead of focusing on my frustration, I decided to give extra effort and use my free time to create educational games and activities that would engage my students. This method of teaching is hardly ever used in Taiwan so even though the students enjoyed it, some of the other teachers were less than impressed.

Having no translator and students with very limited English, I was faced with the problem of basic communication. How can I explain a game or activity to students that don’t comprehend my language and I don’t understand theirs? I kept the rules simple, but still challenging, and used a LOT of gestures. Sometimes I had to enlist a bilingual teacher to translate the instructions into Chinese so the students could read them. At times I felt as if my classroom was a tornado of misunderstanding, but at the end of most days I can honestly say that I had used all my energy, resources and imagination to do the job I came here to do----teach Taiwanese students the English language. I gave more of myself to this endeavor than I thought I had. Sure, my students learned from me but through it all, I learned much more than they did.

Before I wrap up this article, I would like to share a heartfelt story with you, my readers. I depend on public transportation here, and typically there are solicitors trying to make a dollar at the bus and train stations. In the past, I have ignored their pleadings and looked the other way. This one particular Sunday I encountered a 4-year old girl doing the soliciting. She followed me from the ticket booth to where I would wait for my bus. She kept saying hello and showing me what she had for sale. I asked her where her parents where (in Chinese) and she never told me a straight answer. This broke my heart to see a child, who obviously had not bathed in days, having to sell key chains at a train station.

I would imagine that most everyone ignores her, as they do the many adult peddlers so, I decided to sit with her and talk while I waited for the bus. I have never seen a child’s eyes so bright and face smile so big. We made silly faces and laughed with each other until my bus arrived. As I approached the bus, I looked back for one last smile to my little friend. I wept on the bus ride home. I would have done anything to take that child with me, give her a good meal, and a comfortable bed to sleep in. As we pulled away, I watched her wander around through parked taxis and busses, all the while regretting that I didn’t give her everything in my wallet. I have prayed for this young child many times since then, and know if I ever see her again I will be sure to buy her a meal and perhaps some clothing, and maybe, buy a key chain or two. Amid all the aimless people and peddlers walking the streets, I was drawn to this one little girl. We never know when individuals are placed in our paths for a reason. Although I brightened this little girl’s day, I have this gnawing feeling I should have done more. Sometimes there are instances when perhaps we shouldn’t think too much before acting. This is one time I wish I would have acted more and thought less.

I am not naïve enough to believe this is the only country where poverty is rampant and that it doesn’t exist in many parts of the world, including our own United States. I have now been living for almost a year surrounded by these ever-present “street” people. It was something I witnessed only briefly before and forgot quickly, like when I traveled to the Caribbean or visited a large city. It is just so pervasive here and I am confronted with it daily. It sure makes me appreciate where and how I was raised, I can tell you that. Although I feel a sense of remorse for all of them, my heart aches for the children of the street, like the little 4 year old. They have no “childhood” as we know it and I wonder what view of the world they are growing up with and how that will impact their lives forever.

I guess that is why I chose teaching as a profession. School is the one place where their environment can be controlled and people can impact the life of a child in a positive manner no matter what the rest of their life is like. It can be a place, sometimes the only place, in a child’s life that can provide safety, food, nurture, hope and, yes, tools for the future-----an education.

I am very excited to return to US soil on June 26th, and visit all my friends and family that have supported me through emails, expensive phone calls, and prayers. As for what’s next, I’m not quite sure. My ideal plan is to get a teaching job in the area, possibly purchase a house, and begin to settle down. Because of the economy, I am aware that jobs are few and far between, so I have been thinking of alternatives. There is always substitute teaching. I could return to Taiwan but if I had to go abroad again to teach I would probably choose another part of the world just for the experience. The school here would like it very much if I did return. I guess I just don’t know at this point.

Again, I would like to thank everyone for the support and prayers throughout this past year. It has been a tremendous growth experience for me and most of those around me. I will never forget the experiences I have had, the lessons I’ve learn or the people I have met. I know this, I return to the US a much different and, hopefully, wiser person than the naïve recent college graduate that left Shiawassee County that muggy August day in 2008. I have enjoyed writing about my experiences and hope you all enjoyed my writings. I would also like to thank the Argus-Press, especially Gary Webster, for encouraging me to share my thoughts and exploits while in Taiwan with all of you.

Funeral Argus Article

Along my 25-minute commute through the plush farmland of Taiwan, I have encountered many bizarre sights. These include, but are not limited to, an out of control ditch fire, public indecency, and more abused and abandoned animals than I would ever want to see. But, the most intriguing encounter happened during an early morning in late March. I saw what appeared to be a skeleton being removed from a grave. Throughout the day, I tried to dismiss the thought from my mind, but couldn’t seem to shake the idea of a grave being disturbed. Needing to share this experience with someone, I decided a Taiwanese colleague might give me insight on this experience. Not only did I learn why the grave was being dug up, but I also learned about an important Taiwanese holiday that was happening in a few shorts weeks; Tomb Sweeping Day.

Before I get into my findings, I have to admit that I’m not a journalist. This is my first time interviewing people for the sake of an article. I did not get the responses that I expected. I interviewed, or attempted to interview, a number of Taiwanese regarding this Holiday and its traditions. I also sent out quite a few emails to various individuals that I have befriended during my time here. Hardly any one wanted to talk on the subject. A few emails finally trickled in but only a fraction responded. I recently found out that Taiwanese people do not like to talk about death or dying, so my questions probably made them uncomfortable. I do, however, appreciate those few friends that did reply, and give them credit for helping me on this challenging article.

I was told that the rituals for funerals vary greatly among families in Taiwan. What holds true for one family may be completely different for another. This could be caused by the vast separation of traditions and the relatively new culture being ushered in by the younger segment of Taiwanese. Or, it could be a product of the wide range of religious practices found on the island. The pre-funeral and funeral practices seem to be similar for most families, but the burial or cremation process differ from family to family.

When a loved one passes on, there are many traditions that families will follow to honor the deceased and prepare for a funeral. The funeral is typically 2-3 weeks after the death. There are many reasons for this. The family must seek the counsel of a Buddhist astrologer in order to select a burial date that will not conflict with any Chinese superstitions. During these 2-3 weeks, the body is usually kept at the house where friends and loved ones can pay their respects and pray to the deceased.

In the Chinese culture, mourners literally “pay” their respects by bringing coins in small envelopes and dropping them in a basket near the casket. This money goes to the family to help with the cost of a funeral (10,000 USD), or will go to an organization or temple. During the mourning time the family members are temporarily vegetarians. (in Taiwan this means more than refraining from meat, also garlic, onion, and any spices). This time gap between death and the funeral concerned me, and I received conflicting information on how the body is kept in the home. Sometimes it is kept in a bed, and other times there is a refrigerated casket. Again, I think this depends on whether the family follows traditional practices, or has accepted modern substitutions. In addition to the body remaining at the home, a “party” tent is placed at the entrance of the house with large colorful flower arraignments, and a small shrine. Incense burns at all hours of the day for the deceased, and all the lights at the home are left on until the body is buried or cremated. I have passed by many of these tents, and there are always family members praying at the shrine, and typically several women folding paper lotus flowers. In the process of writing this article, there was a funeral held outside the gates of my school. For two entire days, my classes were disrupted by a man on a (very) loud speaker chanting or singing. People came and went on the first day, and there was a sort of organized service on the second day.

The paper lotuses represent a clean and sacred paradise, and are an essential symbol in the funeral. On the other hand, most families gather, discuss and share the feelings with each other by folding lotuses together. While the family members are folding the papers, which will be burned later, other family members come and go to worship the gods and the deceased. This happens twice a day for immediate family members.

When it is time for the actual funeral service it is held in the tent that is set up outside the house. The street is usually blocked off for a few days after the tent has been erected. I did not get information about the actual funeral from my friends, but I have witnessed enough of them in the last year that I think I can recreate them for you. The sounds and music is the first indication that there is a funeral. There is typically music or chanting heard throughout the town because of temple celebrations or worshipping, but this music is different, it’s more drumming and somber singing. The family will hire professional criers to attend the funeral. Sometimes they even hire other people to make the funeral bigger. These criers use a microphone and, from what I’ve heard, can get quite obnoxious and distracting. They are simply there to make the noises of a mourning family. As stated above, the service is held at the deceased house, and from there a parade (on foot) will follow the hearse to either the burial site or the crematorium. The immediate family wears white robes with white pointed hats (similar to a costume once worn by white supremacists). There is sometimes an entire band marching with the family. Incense is burned while marching, and it is a very slow procession. I have had to reroute my drive to work several times because of a funeral parade.

Because Taiwan is a small island, most families chose cremation. But there are still traditional options of burying. Either way, there are still rituals to be held in order to send the deceased to the afterlife. A “bonfire” is set with the paper lotuses, fake “ghost” money, even clothes and personal necessities. This fire is believed to send the items with the soul so that they will survive in the afterlife. For weeks after the internment, food is set by the grave so that the deceased doesn’t go hungry.

Remember that Taiwanese holiday, Tomb Sweeping Day, mentioned earlier, the event that initially sparked my curiosity on this morbid subject? It was held in mid-April, and is celebrated according to the Lunar Calendar. This is when families visit the graves of their loved ones to worship the dead and clean up their grave site. Let me back track and give some insight on the grave site. There are not cemeteries like we are used to. Sometimes in the middle of a farmer’s field, the farmer’s parents are buried. I have seen hillsides with several gravesites, and I have seen graves that seemed to be in the middle of nowhere. It all depends on where a family can get a small plot of land. Obviously, there are no ground keepers. So, once a year, the family cleans up the grave, mows the overgrown weeds, and plants a few flowers. Something I noticed after Tomb Sweeping Day was small papers set on top of the grave. In the picture, you will see that graves are above ground and the top is a dirt mound. On top of that mound was up to twenty papers, held down with stones. {put here the significance of the paper on the mound, after talking to teacher with MayMieo}

If the buried body has been in the grave for ten years or more, it is time to dig up the skeleton. This is what I observed that morning in March. The bones are dug from the grave and taken to the crematorium. The ashes are then stored in a building that keeps the ashes. So, from my understanding, everyone gets cremated eventually, some just rest underground for ten years first. I would like to know if the grave is reused by another family member, or sold to another family, but my sources did not know the answer to this question.

Because Tomb Sweeping Day falls at the beginning of Spring, families take advantage of the nice weather and typically plan a picnic or outing along with the cleaning of the tomb. The foods offered on Tomb Sweeping Day vary by region. In Taiwan, the most common dishes are the distinctive "grave cakes.” These snacks are used during deity worship and consist of an outer layer made of glutinous rice dough dyed red and imprinted by using molds with the design of a peach or a tortoise. They are filled with red bean paste or peanut powder.

Tomb Sweeping Day combines the people's reverence for their ancestors and for nature, and is a reaffirmation of the Chinese ethic of family values. Today, Tomb Sweeping Day is a time not only for worship and maintaining the tombs of ancestors, but also an expression of respect for the teachings and virtues of Chinese ancestors.

For more information on traditional Chinese and Taiwanese holidays, visit http://www.gio.gov.tw/info/festival_c/index_e.htm

Kenting Weekend

Last weekend was the Dragon Boat Festival in Taiwan. Sounds exciting, doesn't it? Well it's simply boat races, and some traditional food. We expats were not to keen on the idea, so decided to make a mini-spring break out of the extended weekend. Patti, Emilie, Julie, and I all planned to meet in Kenting (the beach-resort town that is at the bottom tip of TW) for a relaxing four days. Emilie and I were the first to get there since the other two has prior plans on Thursday. I had made the hotel reservations (with the help of my volunteer soldier, Jeff), and was hoping that we did a good job and were close to the beach. When Emilie and I arrive in a raining Kenting, we ate lunch before looking for our hotel. I figured since I only had the address in Chinese, it would be best to just have a taxi take us there for the first time. When the taxi driver said it would be 600 NT for the ride there, we said forget it. Panic started to set in. We asked another taxi driver, and got the same response. Finally, we decided if it was in the next town over, we could take a bus to get to the beach each day and it was no problem. So, we got in the taxi and headed out of town. Then past the next town. Then off to a side road. Pass some farms. Taxi driver stops to ask directions. twice. Way out in the MIDDLE OF NOWHERE (literally), we arrive at a huge brick building that could double as a prison. We barely stepped out of the taxi before telling the driver we were not staying here and would like to go back to where he picked us up. Yes, it would cost us...but there was NO way we were staying at a place where a taxi driver didn't even know how to get to. By this time, Emilie was freaked out and worried that we wouldn't have a place to stay (since it was a holiday weekend) and she was ready to go home. I was feeling very guilty for screwing up the hotel, but hopeful that we could find a room still. The taxi driver could sense our anguish, and took us took a few hotels (homestays), to help us find a room. Luckily, he found one. It was about the same price as the other hotel, but it was close to the main street AND the beach. Breathe. I was so thankful for the gracious taxi driver who saved our weekend. Granted, our room was not the standards you would expect for 80 US dollars a night.....on the first night we found 5 cockroaches setting up camp in our bathroom. Luckily, those were all the bugs that we noticed. I believe there was gecko poop all over the walls and one of the pillow cases, but I can't be sure. The driver waited until we paid the hotel and got settled in our room before leaving for his next job. What a nice man.
So we were all settled and it was time to start the fun. For me and Emilie, that meant hitting the shops before the other girls came. They aren't big shoppers like Em and I, so we figured we'd do this before they came as to not bore them. There were so many cute dresses in all the shops, it was hard to choose! In the evening, Patti showed up and we all had dinner at a Thai restaurant. Delicious! We called in early that night so we would be all ready for the next day.
Friday morning we woke up and headed straight to the beach. From about 10-1:20 we enjoyed the sand, sun, and sea until it was too hot to bear. Julie met us in the early afternoon. Of course, we all got a little red because we are so close to the tropic of cancer. Note to self, more sun screen tomorrow. After lunch and showering, we walked to the main street to enjoy the chaos. We had dinner reservations at a cute little restaurant that was busy the night before. We decided this would be the perfect opportunity to celebrate Emilie's birthday (which was the Sunday before). Julie brought a cake and we took it to the restaurant. We all overate delicious Mexican or Italian food (spaghetti for me) yet still found room for delicious white chocolate cake (thank you cafe 85). After the cake and song, we headed out for our first night of fun together. We started off on our hotel porch playing some Kings. Around midnight, the owner told us it was time to quiet down, so we decided to move our party elsewhere. Down the road a bit, there was a truck parked on the side of the road that turned into a bar at night. This was popular among the foreigners because in our countries you can't sell alcohol out of your truck let alone have tons of people drinking on the side of the road. It was an awesome establishment. After a night of "duck fart" shots and tons of laughter, we headed to bed. The next day was pretty much the same, sun and sea in the morning, shower and change, relax in the afternoon, have a delicious dinner, then head to the "car bar" This night we called in QUITE late though. Emilie left around 2 am, Julie and I headed back around 3:30, and Patti was out until who knows when. We were having too much fun to call it a weekend and head back to our towns. The next morning was pretty much packing up, getting on a bus, and headed back to reality.
Boy do I love vacations. Even if it was only 4 days.

Reason for no English

Gerry just enlightened me as to why my students do not speak English as well as they should. He found a test on his floor, and it was written by one of the Taiwanese-English teachers. It was a fill in the blank and was formatted like this.
Example: She IS pretty
1. He ____ nice. (with direct Chinese translation following)
2. She ____ thin. (Chinese translation)
3. He ____ heavy. (Chinese translation)

The next question:
Example: We ARE happy.
1. We ____ sad.
2. We ____ going to the zoo.
3. We ____ playing a game.

The test went on like this. Every example had the exact answer that was expected in that section. There was ZERO brain power used to take this test.
Typically I don't worry about what my co-workers do; I try to focus my energy on teaching my students at the best of my ability. After 9 months, I still feel like I have not made much progress at all. Upper Level students can speak as much English as they could last August. No new conversations happen in or out of my classroom. I honestly feel like I have not made an impact after 9 months of trying so hard. I feel like this is part of the reason. If the Taiwanese-English teachers are giving little effort, the kids are giving little effort. And then, ha ha, look at the foreign teacher busting her butt to try and get through! It breaks my heart.
This isn't the case for a lot of schools I have heard about from other foreign teachers. My friend, Emilie's, school is very innovative and has a striving English program. They push the students and expect results. The students can relay their feelings or questions to the foreign teacher.
When I mentioned this all to Gerry he shrugged it off and assumed it was our location. Low-income farming community. This very well could be a factor. The rich kids go to English tutoring school (cram school) after public school. The poor kids don't. This should mean that the "rich kids" are ahead of the group and the "poor kids" are right on target. Well, that's not the case. The non-cram school kids are behind terribly; and the cram school kids are at an average level. I feel that the school(s) need to observe other striving English programs, have motivated teachers, and work toward an English program that will make a difference.